Virtual Scholars

An imagined form of scholarship…

Archive for Travel

100 Years Later…

R., you set me the task of reading Gabriel García Márquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude ahead of my visit to Bogotá in the Spring of next year. And ahead of schedule the task is complete. ‘Márquez’ is of course one of the most important cultural ‘exports’ for Colombia and so it makes sense I should finally get around to reading the book (which has sat upon my shelf expectantly for years).

Márquez was born in 1928 in Aracataca, a town in Northern Colombia, ‘where he was raised by his maternal grandparents in a house filled with countless aunts and the rumors of ghosts’ (Biography…). He studied at the University of Bogotá and went on to be a reporter for the Colombian newspaper El Espectador and travelled to New York and numerous European cities as a foreign correspondent (echoes of which arise in the novel). He was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1982. However, it is far more than this biography of a prominent Colombian that need concern us. Márquez is also a writer of many layers that clearly we can share in the same way we have Flaubert, Proust, and Barthes, as well as film-maker’s such as Wenders, Wong Kar-wai, Keiller and Greenaway.

One Hundred Years of Solitude is a long, magically woven novel, the sort of book that if you put it down for too long only results in needing to start all over again. Fortunately I did not have to read in solitude and when it was all over, this is what I sent by ’mail’ (to the one whose ‘floating world’ has reacquainted me with reading fiction for fiction’s sake):

Yes, 100 is now over for me… Or has just began, since I am now starting to ask myself what it is I have been reading all this time. I suppose in the postmodern ‘tradition’, I have just been reading a book that is the book it refers to – in other words I have been reading Melquiades’ sanskrit parchments all this time, and like the constant battle to dechiper them I am now only just at the beginning of knowing what the book might contain… Dare I read it again? …but that will only put me in the position of needing to read it again, and so on and so on, ad infinitum…

In some respects I could have been satisfied with the first 60 or so pages. The book’s magical realism (for which it is so well known) is subtly opened out, with frames within frames of familial memories and episodes of alchemy. The book is the story of the Buendia family and the town they help found, Macondo. As the backcover notes: ’Part exotic paradise, part nightmare, Macondo is a fantastic world of miracles and mirages where nothing is as it seems. Its secrets lie hidden for years in an encoded book, and only Aureliano Buendia, the last in the dynasty, can unlock its mysteries and discover the fate of this strange land…’. I don’t think it is really to give anything away to cite from the close of the book:

Before reaching the final line, however, he had already understood that he would never leave that room, for it was foreseen that the city of mirrors (or mirages) would be wiped out by the wind and exiled from the memory of men at the precise moment when Aureliano Babilonia would finish dechipering the parchments, and that everything written on them was unrepeatable since time immemorial and forever more, because races condemned to one hundred years of solitude did not have a second opportunity on earth.

The book is unrepeatable – it is an event, not a story book. It stays with me in a way that few books can. I inhabit its landscape and the house at the centre of it all. The fluidity of its mise-en-scene equally conjures up my own past, my family and my memories. In that sense the book is unrepeatable, it can only be my version of the book (I am now its ghost), it has come to inhabit me, as much as I inhibit it.

There are two important recurring motifs to mention, one utopian, which is never realised and the other dsytopian, which troublingly is written out of everyone’s memory. The former is a motif of an unrealised city of ice. The opening line of the book: ‘Many years later, as he faced the firing squad, Colonel Aureliano Buendia was to remember that distant afternoon when his father took him to discover ice’ – proclaimed by Jose Arcadio Buendia as ‘the great invention of our time’: ‘When it was opened … the chest gave off a glacial exhalation. Inside there was only an enormous, transparent block with the infinite internal needles in which the light of the sunset was broken up into coloured stars’.

     Jose Arcadio Buendia dreamed that night that right there a noisy city with houses having mirrors walls rose up. He asked what city it was and they answered him with a name that he had never heard, that had no meaning at all, but that had a supernatural echo in his dream: Macondo. On the following day he convinced his men that they would never find the sea. He ordered them to cut down the trees to make a clearing beside the river, at the coolest spot on the bank, and there they founded the village.
      Jose Arcadio Buendia did not succeed in deciphering the dream of houses with mirror walls until the day he discovered ice. Then he thought he understood its deep meaning. He thought that in the near future they would be able to manufacture blocks of ice on a large scale from such a common material as water and with them build the new houses of the village. Macondo would no longer be a burning place, where the hinges and door knockers twisted with the heat, but would be changed into a wintry city.

The ice factory is never built and subsequently this vision of a wintry city is never realised. Instead Macondo remains a heated, contested space. War rages around it and most troublingly of all a surreal massacre (being the dsytopian motif) takes place following a street protest by union leaders and the workers on strike: ‘…something happened that did not bring on fright but a kind of hallucination. The captain gave the order to fire and fourteen machine guns answered at once. But it all seemed like a farce. It was as if the machine guns had been loaded with caps, because their panting rattle could be heard and their incandescent spitting could be seen, but not the slightest reaction was perceived’. Yet, hours later, the only ’survivor’ of this event is Jose Arcadio Segundo who wakes up in darkness to realise:

…he was riding on an endless and silent train and that his head was caked with dry blood and that all his bones ached. He felt an intolerable desire to sleep … There was no free space in the car except for an aisle in the middle. Several hours must have passed since the massacre because the corpses had the same temperature as plaster in autumn and the same consistency of petrified foam that it had, and those who had put them in the car had had time to pile them up in the same way in which they transported bunches of bananas.

Jose Arcadio Segundo eventually escapes from the train and makes his way back to Macondo, but bizzarely finds that no one believes him about what has happened. He spends his time trying to find out what really went on (if anything at all, for had it been a dream?) and to determine how no one seemed to believe it or wish to speak of it. As the book is at this point beginning to near its end (in one’s hand, one feels the pages already read now undoubtedly outweighing those left to be read) there is a vague sense in which this mystery will eventually be resolved. Concurrent with my reading of the nove, a story, which has been around for sometime, appeared in The Guardian about ‘death squads’ targeting union leaders in Bogotá. The story relates specifically to bottling plants used by Coca-Cola, with the unions claiming that ‘the company’s locally owned bottlers in Colombia used illegal paramilitary groups to intimidate, threaten and kill its workers’ and which in turn has led to an attempted boycott of Coca-Cola products around the world (More…). Mark Thomas’ book Belching Out the Devil: Global Adventures with Coca-Cola (see also Channel 4’s Dispatches) considers this story in more detail. It is a murky tale, which appears hard to pin down (just as the ‘fictional’ account of the massacre in Márquez’s novel). The timing of the appearance of this report, coinciding with my reading of One Hundred Years of Solitude, gave an added twist to the novel’s very last line: ‘…because races condemned to one hundred years of solitude did not have a second opportunity on earth’. One hundred years later, as it were, the solitude continues, or is it only repeated? Like the call of ‘Macondo’, Coca-Cola has no inherent meaning, yet its ’supernatural echo’ rebounds through our capitalist ’Empire’ (to take Hardt and Negri’s term). But I don’t want to give up on that wintry city, not yet, not when literature itself might still manage to show us other pathways.

Yet, Literature and Empire (as befits the ‘logic’ of the latter) must collide. Rachel Aviv’s article for Salon.com, 100 years of solitude — on crack, neatly encapsultes this in its subheading: ‘Latin America’s McOndo literary movement drags the butterflies of magical realism into Burger King. With Jorge Franco’s narco-saga “Rosario Tijeras,” it may have found its first masterpiece’.  She explains:

     Alberto Fuguet, the young Chilean author who is responsible for coining the word “McOndo,” respects García Márquez but resents the idea that to be perceived as Latin American one must write like him. [...] Fuguet and several other so-called McOndians, most notably Pedro Juan Gutierrez, Mario Mendoza and Edmundo Paz Soldán, came back (in a wave of recent and forthcoming English translations), but their work in no way resembles García Márquez’s. If anything, their style is a cross between Raymond Chandler and Charles Bukowski – Chandler in their depiction of the city as a kind of protagonist, Bukowski in their appetite for large doses of provocative, unsavory details: fucking a corpse in a junkyard, peeing on a former lover’s face, scenes of mass masturbation.
     This generation has yet to produce a standout, world-class figure as the one before did, but many hopes have been pegged on Jorge Franco. In 2000, Franco’s “Rosario Tijeras,” which has just been translated into English, won Spain’s most prestigious literary prize. As reported by Silvana Paternostro in the magazine Críticas, Franco made an extraordinary deal with his publishing house in order to get the manuscript into print, promising to pay for all promotion and publicity himself. He peddled the book personally, dropping it off at newspapers and magazines. “He ran into the wife of the editor of El Tiempo, Colombia’s main newspaper, in an elevator and gave her a copy, asking if she would pass it on to her husband,” Paternostro wrote. “Two weeks later, he got an admiring phone call from the editor, who promised to do something. But Franco never thought the editor would dedicate an entire column to ‘Rosario Tijeras.’” The book sold out in two days and since then has has sold more than 300,000 copies in Latin America and Spain – unprecedented for any Colombian writer other than García Márquez. (Rachel Aviv)

Franco’s book has since been made into a film and the English translation of the book is endorsed by Gabriel García Márquez himself, with the line: ‘This is one of the Colombian authors I would like to pass the torch to’. But, as Aviv notes, ‘[w]hen people die in the book it is not because of beautiful, biblical butterfly plagues, but because of acts of street crime – narco-terror’. As I write I await the arrival of copy of the book, which I ordered just the other day (a means of extending my preparatory reading, ahead of coming to Bogotá). I’m really not sure if I want to read the book, but it seems I should: 

Franco depicts street crimes, bar brawls, police brutality and poverty, and yet at times his world – one of profound disillusionment and anger – appears just as grotesque and fantastical as does his literary forefathers’ magical ones. Whereas magical realism was a form premised upon nostalgia for a premodern world that has passed or is passing away, Franco’s literary style shrilly acknowledges the presence of modernity: He depicts a recognizable society shaped and permeated by pop culture, mass media, urban growth and the forces and influence of globalization. To return to the present is to reckon with a reality that is, for many, absent of enchantment and magic. As Max Weber once put it, the realistic novel constitutes the “disenchantment of the world,” and in moving from magical realism to realism, in emerging from under the long shadow of García Márquez, this Colombian author attempts to do justice to his profound disillusionment. (Rachel Aviv)

R., in coming to Bogotá, I’m imagining a whole city of ice awaits our explorations… though I know, with that must come the dilemma of whether or not to avert one’s gaze from yet another place, ’shaped and permeated by pop culture, mass media, urban growth and the forces and influence of globalization’.

Along it came…

I bundled everything into my bag and soon it was heavy again. As ever it was a race against the clock. I checked to see I had picked up everything (the usual feeling, in such a hurry, of having forgotten something crucial lingered). But, I had all the bits and pieces I needed to read in preparation for teaching and of course Marquez’s 100 Years of Solitude (the title set by R. in preparation for my trip to Bogota, the page quotas by our reading group of two!)… There was just enough time, I thought, to get to the library to get that book about blogging (again for teaching), which I’d not been able to get last week because of such early closing times.

I hurried up to the first floor and headed straight to the shelf location 301.231. I spotted it finally down on the bottom shelf and swiftly plucked it from its position. I was all but away again when I noticed a title along the thin tall spine of a neighbouring book: The Digital Film Event. Interesting, I thought and shifted the weight of my bag slightly to be on my way again. Yet, no I couldn’t quite leave it there for a ‘next time’ (and so allow it to be lost to those spaces of lost volumes that ever haunt me). I let my bag down to the floor to free myself to collect up this second book. The pages are glossy I thought. Pictures, some in colour. And what is this, a filmscript in the middle? Could not compute. I was definitely intrigued. Could be a red herring, maybe a little self indulgent (though who am I to talk!). But the back cover did it, ever aware of the ticking clock, my eyes skated over the top few lines:
 

FILM / VISUAL STUDIES / POSTCOLONIAL STUDIES

Endless travel in cyberspace, virtual reality, and the dream of limitless speed: technology changes our sense of self. In her new book, Trinh Minh-ha explores the way technology transforms our perception of reality. 

Yes the word travel appeared I thought, a good omen and cyberspace, which would seem to help knit together our wandering plans and the insistence with which I write this blog. Suddenly the book became such precious cargo. Still with little sense of what it actually contained (and what does it really matter when set against the inspiration it offered), I hurried down to the library desk as if someone might reach out of the shadows and take it from me before I had the chance to have it issued to my name… As I ran the book’s barcode through the machine I became aware of a whole host of new possibilities (if only I could write them down here as quickly as I thought of them). Only yesterday as I half described the plans (or at least their moods/modes) R. and I have dreamt up for my visit, you said to me (as you sat perfectly, cross-legged upon that massive bed) ‘…and you could do more films’. The suggestion startled me for a moment (but that is hardly new) and I think I gave a non-commital reply, but it went quick and direct to my other mind (the one that can’t function in real-time).

R. … I think we have been thinking too small. Let’s not just look to the films and books of Robinsonesque adventures (and other associated Species of Spaces), let’s make our own. In our ever best attempts to refashion Bovard and Pecuchet for the 21st Century, I think we ought to turn our hand to being media artists. We’ll go the whole hog and invent a globalised installation.

I have been writing this, trying to archive my thoughts, as I travel back on the train. As I step off at the station and enter the usual commotion of commuters, I sense all the connections in my head dissipate (a desparate feeling under the circumstances). Still, I hang on to these words saved. It could be a real turning point. I really sense it could be a turning point (something we must discuss during our next skype call). Of course in previous literatures, this remark, which issues as if literally ensconced in the hurlyburly of modern life, might seem to reveal a contrived attempt, or re-presentation, of the transient. Yet, since I am able to type and transmit these words upon my mobile phone, we can’t so easily judge one’s verisimilitude.

…and this simply all feeds into the ideas of the author of The Digital Film Event, Trinh T. Minh-ha. As the backpage blurb continues:

“We are all engaged in social rituals in our daily activities,” she writes, ” and by remaining unaware of their artistic ritutal propensity, we remain ‘in conformity.’” Her goal, as a thinker and an artist, is to transform our understanding of technology and speed so that we are able to “turn an instrument into a creative tool and to step out of the one dimensional, technologically servile mind.”

The paradoz that “stillness contains speed within it” is central to Trinh’s concept of the digital apparatus. With her signature amalgam of feminism, postcolonial theory, Eastern philosophy, and practical understanding of filmmaking, Trinh Minh-ha presents a much-needed advance in our understanding of the real in a technological age.

R. … welcome to The Letters in Red 2.0…

Walk-Through Library

It takes a very special pair of eyes to locate (from far far overseas) a tranquil spot amidst the maddness of a ‘Global City’ such as Tokyo. I’m very glad she did, as I was then able to go scouting for the location.

As it turns out the library of the Park Hyatt Tokyo is rather like a walk-in wardrobe: a glamorous moment in the confines of a relatively small space. Nonetheless, it was a pity, after much anticipation, to find the library was not ‘a room of its own’, but instead a decorative corridor on route to the lifts. Left to your own devices you’d probably be easily fooled by the photograph on the hotel’s website; as ever one must ‘learn to ignore what the photographer saw’. Needless to say I took the very same photograph – a ritual of the sightseer I guess (though this visit was always going to want to be a loving memento, the picture side of a ‘Wish You Were Here’ postcard).

As I arrived - dressed in just T-shirt and trousers – I was asked if I wanted my luggage taken. A little startled that my single bag could be construed as luggage, I must have let on to my lack of credentials. ‘Are you a guest here, Sir?’ – she asked. I had to be honest, but I pulled from my magic bag a printout of an email from the hotel saying how I was most welcome to visit. It was enough to get me in. The hotel’s main entrance and lobby is accessible from the street as you’d expect, but there is nothing more of the hotel until 41 floors up in the lift. Like Charlie in the Great Glass Elevator, I arrived into the hotel with a huge grin and with full recognition that this was not where I would normally be found.

I managed to wander about without causing any further suspicion and soon came upon the library which I had come looking for, but had not quite been expecting. I paced about the bookcases, looking in at the various and curious volumes contained. I caught sight of myself in the parallel mirrors, which gave an infinite set of reflections and I made an expensive call: an invitation to dinner (tbc), 41 floors up in the sky.       

…finally I left for the now hum-drum streets of Shinjuku after many attempted goodbyes (like those false fades common to the pop songs of the 1980s, when the music just starts up again, sounding evermore fresh and necessary). The light was fading as I entered this more quotidian, yet alternative ‘library’; full, as it is, of a vast array of materials and media.  

 

 …and just as I had experienced the library at the Hyatt in the mode of hyperspace, it was perhaps fitting that upon one of the many ‘library’ shelves of the department stores I was finally able to locate more appropriate (virtual) luggage. Yet, like the books in the cabinets of the Hyatt, these too were behind glass, awaiting an affluent onlooker.

 

…but all is not lost. The trip has surely afforded me the occasion of a vacilador, which – as previously noted – Steinbeck describes as one who is ‘going somewhere but doesn’t greatly care whether or not he gets there, although he has direction’. The beauty of such trips would seem to be you come away with far more than you might expect. So, like Steinbeck, who goes in search of potatoes, ‘it turned out I saw almost more potatoes than I needed to see’ – for I got to my library and then its experience stayed with me over long-distance, as well as when I then fell back into the streets outside. As one result of my virtual visit, I have some new thoughts for the ‘Project’ supposedly unfolding here. Like quaint library index cards, I think the sections of the book (to come) should be divided by simple, single words. A sort of idiosyncratic filing system. One word can be ‘Library’ – to be filled out with various associations, manipulations and of course liaisons that occur in such ’neutral’ surrounds. Another, I suspect, can be ‘Fabric’ – just because it is simultaneously both such a tactile and textual word and because it seems various items under this label are already underway. ’Luggage’ (not baggage) might need to be another one…

Umi-hotaru (Postmodern Classic #26)

Umi-hotaru (海ほたる), or ’sea firefly’, is a bizzare artificial island at the mindpoint of the Tokyo Bay Aqua-Line (東京湾アクアライン), a bridge-tunnel connecting the city of Kawasaki in Kanagawa Prefecture with the city of Kisarazu in Chiba Prefecture (with an overall length of 14 km, a 4.4 km bridge and 9.6 km tunnel underneath the bay - the longest underwater tunnel for cars in the world).

Air is supplied to the tunnel by a distinctive tower in the middle of the tunnel, called the Kaze no tō (風の塔), which uses the bay’s almost-constant winds as a power source.

The Aqualine was built to reduce traffic through the center of Tokyo, and to link the two important industrial regions of Chiba and Kanagawa. The road opened on December 18, 1997 after 31 years of construction at a cost of 1.44 trillion yen (11.2 billion USD at the time of opening). It is a very ‘modern’ project – all about mighty engineering, progress and efficiency. Where previously it had been necessary to drive 100km or so along the shores of Tokyo Bay and pass through the center of Tokyo, the bridge-tunnel takes just 15 minutes. Yet, arriving at its mid-way point, I felt as if I had reached one of the last decaying remnants of a postmodern age. It was like arriving at the disused theme park that is the opening for Miyazaki’s much lauded anime feature Spirited Away. Except, where the tunnel led Chihiro to a mysterious town, which comes to life in a very surreal fashion, the island of Umi-hotaru is listless and fascinatingly tacky and banal.

 

The island is essentially a car-park and rest area consistng of restaurants, shops and amusement facilities. It bleeps and sells fast-food and ice-creams like any other motorway services stopover. Looking out over the water there was nothing to see – just the mist of what I guess was the smog of Tokyo and its surrounds on a summer’s day. It was an eerie, quiet artificial space, with no sense of where you were or where you had come from (since the tunnel obviously keeps you from seeing anything at all until one arrives).

It is, to use Marc Augé’s term, a ’non-place’; one of those interstitial places between the ’significant and meaningful’ spaces he calls ‘place’. One can immediately get a sense of these ‘non-places’ from the descriptive prologue of his book, Non-Places: Introduction to an Anthropology of Supermodernity (1995): A man is traveling from Paris by airplane. He draws money from the ATM, waits on the highway, enters the airport, then the airplane itself. His reality is made up entirely of advertising, the bright lights, digital displays, glass and polished walkways. All are places that are not quite places, but which acquire their identity from their being on the way to other places, near or far. Augé’s thesis is of three kinds of accelerated transformations: (1) of time, an ‘acceleration of history’ (p. 26) leading to an overabundance of events; (2) of space: ‘the excess of space is correlative with the shrinking of the planet’ (p. 31) leading to spatial overabundance; and (3) of the individual, ’the figure of the ego’ (p. 36). All three would seem to exist at Umi-Hotaru. The accelerated journey time between Kawasaki and Kisarazu, cutting out all that you might see on route otherwise and turning the whole ‘crossing’ itself into an event. The creation of a whole new place (in the middle of a bay) and in the process shrinking a little corner of the planet and all that goes with re-engineering the environment. And the individual – the many individuals who arrive here with nothing but themselves to satisfy. Some even take the trip solely to visit the island, turning back into the tunnel instead of continuing on across the bridge as you would expect. The whole improbability of the place brought to mind The Restaurant at the End of the Universe: ‘…run by an incredible arrangement of life forms from everywhere, and is the one place anywhere that serves a talking food. One of the restaurant’s major attractions is that diners can watch the entire universe end around them as they eat. The terminal moment is followed by dessert.’

Fredric Jameson, in his well-known essay, ‘Postmodernism, or, The Cultural Logic of Late Capitalism’,  writes of the Westin Bonadventure Hotel (Los Angeles, California), describing it as a complete world, a mini city with no obvious entry. Its ‘glass skin’, he notes, ‘achieves a peculiar and placeless dissociation of the Bonaventure from its neighborhood: it is not even an exterior, inasmuch as when you seek to look at the hotel’s outer walls you cannot see the hotel itself but only the distorted images of everything that surrounds it.’ The building has become the ‘classic’ example of postmodern architecture (and largely because of Jameson’s essay), of which he writes: ‘…this latest mutation in space – postmodern hyperspace – has finally succeeded in transcending the capacities of the individual human body to locate itself, to organize its immediate surroundings perceptually, and cognitively to map its position in a mappable external world’.

After dessert, which happened to be a rather lavish ice-cream, it was time for me to leave Umi-Hotaru, to complete the crossing over the bridge and leave behind its strangely absent horizon. However, as the car left on its prescribed route I wondered if perhaps the human body has finally caught up with these so-called non-place or hyperspaces. As the paint begins to peel and the glamour of the entertainments rapidly fade, the capacities of the human body to map these spaces does not seem so difficult (we are too well versed in a network culture now), yet this fact still does not make them any less postmodern, for where else is there to go? (..even turning back into the tunnel, only takes you out into more of the same).

‘…people don’t take trips – trips take people’ – Steinbeck

At the close of an introductory essay in the Penguin edition of John Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley, the poet and novelist Jan Parini foregrounds the foreboding and prophetic nature of the book. Beneath the charm and humour there is ‘a sense of disenchantment that turns, eventually, into anger’. The interpretation is compounded by a quote from a letter Steinbeck himself sent to his editor, which reflects upon the trip:

In all my travels I saw very little real poverty, I mean the grinding terrifying poorness of the Thirties. That at least was real and tangible. No, it was a sickness, a kind of wasting disease. There were wishes but no wants. And underneath it all the building energy like gases in a corpse. When that explodes, I tremble to think what will be the result.

The force of Steinbeck’s concern, or disgust even, is palpable. Yet, going on something he says in the book itself, it is perhaps fairer to say this reading of the text comes out only after the trip, after having written the book, or even after it is read. From my reading, I find the trip itself much more ambiguous. I don’t think the anecdotal convincingly tallies with any attempt to offer a specific socio-political commentary. And I think Steinbeck himself is very aware of this. In the various conversations he recounts with people he meets along the way, it is generally quite explicit that as he prods for an analysis of the American way of life, whether at a local or national level, more often than not the dialogues end up in surprising places. He doesn’t get what he is initially looking for – his suspicions and opinions are often destabilised. At the very start of the trip, for example, as he crosses on the ferry from Orient Point to Connecticut, he talks with an off-duty submariner. Steinbeck is deeply sceptical of submarines (and their aggressive purposes), yet through the conversation he has to accept there is another point of view. ‘…could be he’s right and I’m wrong. It’s his world, not mine any more. There’s no anger in his delphinium eyes and no fear and no hatred either, so maybe it’s all right. It’s just a job with good pay and a future. I must not put my memories and fear on him’ (19).

Contradictory points of view abound in the book. Reflecting on his love of words and local accents, for example, Steinbeck seems to offer an overly nostalgic view, until, he admits ‘…that sweet local speech I mourn was the child of illiteracy and ignorance’. It is at this point he presents what might be described as his ‘thesis’ on the past and future:

It is the nature of a man as he grows older, a small bridge in time, to protest against change, particularly change for the better. But it is true that we have exchanged corpulence for starvation, and either one will kill us. The lines of change are down. We, or at least I, can have no conception of human life and human thought in a hundred years or fifty years. Perhaps my greatest wisdom is the knowledge that I do not know. The sad ones are those who waste their energy in trying to hold it back, for they can only feel bitterness in loss and no joy in gain (83)

The idea of knowledge being something you do not know is important to the book – it is what gives the whole journey (and its recounting) tremendous dignity. Yet, the book is of course extremely thoughtful, provocatively so at times. But these moments only arise as if unexpectedly – it is not knowledge as a possession that is presented, but rather what one didn’t quite know until it came up, until it surfaced through a certain travelling. Travelling thoughts, travelling places. Steinbeck gives a wonderful description of this (virtual) process, as it occurs whilst driving:

…a large area of the conscious mind is left free for thinking. And what do people think of when they drive? On short trips perhaps of arrival at a destination or memory of events at the place of departure. But there is left, particularly on very long trips, a large area for daydreaming or even, God help us, for thought. No one can know what another does in that area. I myself have planned houses I will never build, have made gardens I will never plant … I have created turtle traps in my mind, have written long, detailed letters never to be put to paper, much less sent. When the radio was on, music has stimulated memory of times and places, complete with characters and stage sets, memories so exact that every word of dialogue is recreated. And I have projected future scenes, just as complete and convincing – scenes that will never take place. I’ve written short stories in my mind, chuckling at my own humor, saddened or stimulated by structure or content (74).

At the close of the book, he explains how he ‘tried to explore the nature of journeys’, to say something about ‘how they are things in themselves, each one an individual and no two alike’. It is this openness to the singular and unique that I think offers the richer current in this book, which seems less about a country and its woes and much more about one’s personal survival as a human being. It is perhaps no real coincidence that Steinbeck embarks upon the trip as he thinks it might be the last time he really can undertake such a journey.

San Pablo con un Libro

Two important issues are at stake. Firstly the notion of the individual, of one’s space – a space of one’s own, whether physical space or mental space. It is a notion of the individual as humble and dignified, not the individual of consumerism, which in effect is an individual bound up in the crowd, in the multitude. Secondly, there is a question mark which hovers above the very writing up of the trip – how does one archive such a journey and its associated thoughts and possibilities? In place Steinbeck writes about writing – he suggests he does not write whilst on the road (so it must have been composed after the event) and he admits to editing scenes – he does not include his stopover in Chicago (when he meets his wife and has a break). These two issues combine, crystallise even in the following passage: 

Go to the Ufizzi in Florence, the Louvre in Paris, and you are so crushed with the numbers, once the might of greatness, that you go away distressed, with a feeling like constipation. And then when you are alone and remembering, the canvases sort themselves out; some are eliminated by your tastes or your limitations, but others stand up clear and clean. Then you can go back to look at one thing untroubled by the shouts of the multitude. After confusion I can go into the Prado in Madrid and pass unseeing the thousand pictures shouting for my attention and I can visit a friend – a not large Greco, San Pablo con un Libro. St Paul has just closed the book. His finger marks the last page read and on his face are the wonder and will to understand after the book is closed. Maybe understanding is possible only after. (84)

Perhaps then, Steinbeck can only think (and make us think) after he has been on this trip – not during it. Or at least that is how we need to come to understand the process of thinking, or travelling. Yet, equally it is only because of the trip that there is anything to think about – thinking is not outside of the event. And here, in the picture Steinbeck refers to, we can see this idea of thinking, of understanding occurring only afterwards. One closes the book gently and then ponders, collects one’s thoughts (an added dimension is that fact that this picture can now be so easily found because of the internet – how does this technology relate to the individual and the means of archiving thought/travelling?). We tend to think of the book as knowledge, yet here the picture depicts the moment after the book, in which the will to knowledge truly takes place. It is an ever-present occurring moment, pushing one thought on to the next, just as Steinbeck describes in our habits of thinking whilst driving. We travel, we recount our travels in thoughtful prose or conversation, which leads us to think on further, which in turn prompts more travelling. The book understood this way reveals a necessarily ambiguous portrait – not of a country as such, nor perhaps of specific individuals, but simply of the will to travel. It also helps to understand the depth of a delightful line about Charley, his canine travelling companion, who must be let out of the truck on regular occasions to relieve himself: ‘There Charley could with his delicate exploring nose read his own particular literature on bushes and tree trunks and leave his message there, perhaps as important in endless time as these pen scratches I put down on perishable paper (84).

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